Mark on the Shore

Mark’s Score  8.9

I am a big supporter of local communities and local businesses. I delight in the rebirth of our historic town centers. I have been eating at Bon Appétit for years. On my first visit to Bon Appétit, I was not very impressed with Seaford. But over the last few years a number of new businesses have given downtown a new dynamic. On my last visit to Brimminghorn I noticed that a new pub, The Atomic, had opened up a few doors down from Bon Appétit. I resolved to eat there the next time I was in town. 

The Atomic was opened this past summer by Chef Jeremy, a dynamic and enthusiastic graduate of the Culinary Institute of America. Chef Jeremy’s culinary philosophy could best be described as a modern, upscale interpretation of American comfort food where smoked meats are the centerpiece of the menu. However, the smoked foods are folded into innovative and unique dishes such as brisket quesadilla, and Atomic Nachos. 

I was in Seaford on a cool rainy Sunday and American comfort food seemed to be the perfect antidote for the bleak autumnal weather. The restaurant is located in an old renovated storefront. The interior design was both vaguely traditional pub combined with a brooding sleekly modern vibe. 

I sat at the bar and both the very friendly bartender and waitress handed me a menu and a couple of bar puzzles.  Being my first visit, I decided to go with two starters, their brisket quesadilla and their chorizo queso mac and cheese. They had a Brimminghorn beer on tap so I ordered a glass to wash it all down. 

While I waited for the food, I played with the puzzles they handed me. To the delight of the bartender, I solved the first puzzle in less than a minute.  I also solved the second puzzle in short order. So, then they handed me a third puzzle that was obviously designed by demons, and thoroughly stumped me. 

Chef Jeremy personally brought out my food, and his obvious enthusiastic pride had won me over before I took my first bite. The quesadilla contained in-house smoked brisket, locally sourced chorizo from Hastings Meat Market, and pickled jalapeños. It was truly one of the best quesadillas that I have had in some time. The mac and cheese was made with a silky smooth béchamel sauce that contrasted well with Hasting’s spicey chorizo. It was too much food, and I ate barely half of it. But I was so impressed, I asked Chef Jeremy to make his famous créme brûlée for dessert. Créme brûlée should be delicately creamy with a l light coating of burnt sugar on top. It was perfect, and even though I was full, I ate the whole thing. 

The Atomic hits all my buttons. Locally owned, locally supplied, innovative cuisine, expertly made, friendly enthusiastic staff and all in a refurbished downtown establishment. I cannot wait to go back and try other items on their menu. 

What else is there to do in Seaford?

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