Mark’s Score 8.7
I have wanted to eat at this restaurant for a very long time. The problem is they are only open for a few hours a week, so it took me some time to coordinate my schedule with theirs.
Two if by Sea was opened by Chef Henry Miller, in the town’s old general store in 2008. Miller is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and had an extensive career in restaurants and catering companies before opening One if by Land Two if by Sea. Miller’s purpose in opening his restaurant was to create a welcoming neighborhood cafê where locals and tourists could gather to eat home-cooked food in a relaxed setting. Though he purposely did not want to create a “destination” restaurant, since its opening, the café has become a destination for breakfast and brunch.
Finally, I happened to be in St Michaels on a Friday morning, if I hurried through my work at the winery, I would have plenty of time to order and eat lunch before Two if by Sea closed for the day. From the outside, it still very much looks like an old-time general store. I walked in and immediately fell in love with the place. It reminded me of the old soda fountains of my youth. There were tables and chairs but there was also an old-fashioned lunch counter, with old-fashioned leather and aluminum stools. The walls and counters were covered with bric-a-brac. And there was an open kitchen in the back allowing you to watch Miller do his craft.
I sat at the counter; the very friendly waitress behind the counter handed me a surprising extensive menu, and a cup of coffee. They do make lunch items but they are noted for their breakfasts. I saw Eggs Benedict and corned beef hash on the menu. I love a well-made hash, but most restaurants make a hash of hash. The waitress assured me that Miller made his hash from scratch, and I would not regret ordering it, so I did. While I waited for my food, I asked her about the restaurant’s unusual name. What connection could there be between a restaurant in rural Maryland and Paul Revere? Well, there is none, Miller named the restaurant after a promotional display at Pottery Barn, which is a far better story than any connection with Paul Revere.
My meal arrived in short order. Poached eggs are tricky, most times chefs over or under cook them. These eggs were the perfect amount of runny. I thought the hollandaise a little too thick for my taste, but the hash was cooked just the way my grandmother used to make it. But the real surprise, and the star of the show were the perfectly seasoned hash browns. I could have eaten a plate of just the potatoes.
Miller’s café is that rare restaurant that delivers precisely what it promises. It is warm, welcoming, and the food is prepared in a home-cooked style. I love this pace. It is like taking a trip back to my childhood.
What else is there to do on Tilghman Island?
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