Mark on the Shore

Mark’s Score   8.1

At first, I didn’t think much about Pocomoke City, I certainly would not consider it a Delmarva tourist spot. Downtown is full of empty store fronts, and the surrounding neighborhoods all look like they could use a new coat of paint. But then a funny thing happened, I realized that over time, I kept finding hidden gems and I found myself writing favorable reviews of places and things in and around Pocomoke City. 

Pocomoke City takes its name from the river. Pocomoke is an Algonquin language word meaning “black water.” A small settlement grew up around the Stevens Ferry crossing on the Pocomoke River around 1670.  The Pocomoke River is extraordinarily deep and navigable, leading to Pocomoke City’s development into a port and transportation hub. Its main industries included the whare housing of tobacco, ship building, lumber milling, barrel-making, and basket manufacturing. Though the town is one of the oldest settlements in the country, there are very few colonial era buildings, due to the town being destroyed in the great fire of 1922. 

I remember the first time I visited Pocomoke City. I was driving south on Rte. 13, heading toward Virginia. As I was crossing the bridge over the river, I looked to my right and saw the brilliantly white Market Street Bridge. Once I crossed the river, I took the first right into downtown Pocomoke City to get a closer look. At the time, Market Street was lined with majestic trees (they have all since been chopped down). I turned right on Market and parked in the parking lot at the foot of the bridge. This bridge is an architectural gem. It is a double-leaf bascule drawbridge built in 1920. It partially collapsed in 1988, which ironically saved it from destruction. It is one of the few surviving movable bridges in Maryland. 

Over the years, I would purposely drive through Pocomoke, just to admire the bridge. As for the rest of the town, well it wasn’t worth a mention, or so I thought. Then one day I visited the Delmarva Discovery Museum (at the foot of the bridge). From the outside, it didn’t look like much, but for my money, it is one of the best curated museums on Delmarva. The focus is on the river and river life. I found it both entertaining and educational. 

Then I discovered Cypress Roots Brewing Company and the Pocomoke Nature Trail, both of which are within a block or two of the bridge. I discovered Cypress Roots around the holidays. It was late afternoon on a cold winter’s day, and a beer seemed like a good idea. I walked into the building and met Jessman, the owner and brewer. His beers were excellent and it was so obvious that he loved both his craft and his town that my opinion of Pocomoke City was swayed. As for the trail, it has cypress swamps, ghosts, and a pub and museum at the end. What more could you ask of a trail?

So over time Pocomoke City has won me over. On first blush, you might just give this town a miss. But with a little effort I have come to appreciate its sense of place, its charm, and its historic significance. In my view, it is well worth a visit.

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