Mark on the Shore

Mark’s Score   9.6

I am not one to exclaim, “this is the best.” But if you pinned me down and insisted, I name “the best” restaurant in all of Delmarva, this is the restaurant that would be at the tip of my tongue. The reason it would be my first choice is that it provides a stellar performance on all my rating requirements, food quality, presentation, atmosphere, and service. I have rated a number of restaurants on my blog, this is one of only two restaurants that score a 9 or better on all my criteria

Shark is owned by Chef Jimmy Sambataro, Victoria Sperry, and Krystle Meehan. The cuisine concept at Shark is inspired by the visionary and gifted chef, Travis Wright. Travis died several years ago, but his vision lives on at Shark.

I have mentioned before that dining out, in my view, is about the entire experience. I like to go to Shark at lunchtime because of the fantastic views of the Ocean City harbor. Yes, Ocean City is a beach town, but it is also a working fishing port and Shark is right in the center of the port. The floor-to-ceiling windows give you the perfect view for a seafood restaurant, fishing boats returning from the sea. The restaurant is also the perfect size. There is a central bar, and no more than a dozen tables, giving it a cozy feeling. Small is always better, in my view. 

I have complained in the past about how menus on the shore tend to be much of a muchness. The same dishes serving the same food, prepared in the same way, from restaurant to restaurant to restaurant. Shark is a seafood restaurant, so you find the usual seafood items on the menu. In that way, it is like every other seafood restaurant. But it is not the list of usual suspects, it is how they prepare their dishes that make this restaurant so special. Every time I go, I suffer indecision, everything sounds interestingly delicious. I love their “good luck soup” (braised Swiss chard, bacon and kale, blackeyed peas, andouille and kielbasa). When was the last time you saw a dish like that on a menu?

On my last visit I had the Fisherman’s Stew with a side of their crispy Brussel sprouts. The stew was delightfully picante with an interestingly tangy seasoning. It was also bottom to rim filled with a variety of shell and swimming fish. But the real delight was the Brussel sprouts. It is actually not accurate to call this dish “Brussel sprouts.” It was a medley of vegetables and goat cheese cooked in a balsamic reduction. If food could be granted sainthood, this dish would be at the front of the line.  

The combination of stunning views, intimate surroundings, and innovative dishes, make this restaurant very special. When I want to showcase the best of Delmarva to out of town guests, this is my restaurant of choice.