Mark’s Score 8.7
It was a cold grey Boxing Day, the sky spitting a mixture of sleet and rain. I spent the two previous days preparing for and celebrating Christmas. The holiday was nice, but I was ready to get away for a few hours. I certainly wanted to avoid the crowds at stores, and I had a refrigerator full of leftovers, so I was not in the mood to go out to lunch. I had been meaning to go to Cyprus Roots Brewery for a while, so this seemed like the perfect opportunity.
Cyprus Roots was opened a little over a year ago, in downtown Pocomoke City, by owners Jessman and Lana Duryea. Jessman had been brewing beer since 2012. This is a story of civic-minded local citizens combining talent, vision, and civic pride to create a new business. Cyprus Roots is not about mass production but about brewing quality locally made approachable beers that can be enjoyed by guests in a welcoming and convivial home town pub atmosphere.
I had passed Cyprus Roots a few months back when I had lunch at Dockside. It looked inviting, so I resolved to return. I have always liked Pocomoke City and lamented its obvious decline, so I was already half won over merely by the fact that the owners were making an attempt to revitalize downtown. The weather was bad, so there were only five other patrons when I entered. The tables and bar were littered with board games, and Jessman’s friendly and enthusiastic demeanor gave the place a warm, friendly neighborhood vibe.
I sat down at the bar and Jessman was busy serving a small group that had entered just ahead of me, which gave me time to review the beer selection. This being my first time at Cyprus, I ordered a flight of four beers. I had mentioned that I have liked wheat and wit beers, but as I got older, I was developing an appreciation for stouts. With Jessman’s guidance, I chose their “signature” red ale, oatmeal stout, German Pilsner, and American wheat. Whether I would like the beers or not, I couldn’t help but be impressed with Jessman’s enthusiasm and passion for his craft. Jessman makes all the beers on site and his obvious pride and delight in his work had me predisposed to liking the beer.
Jessman makes a porter (which I had never liked), but he gave me a free sample, just to see if my pallet had changed, it hasn’t, I still don’t like porters. I am not going to review each beer, but all four beers had a light, cheery, and crisp style. Of the four, my favorite was the red ale. I can see why Jessman considers it his signature beer.
This is a traditional neighborhood pub. It is a place for friends to gather, share a cold beer, and enjoy each other’s company. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience, and next time I will bring a few friends.
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