Mark’s Score 9.3
When Sushi de Kanpai closed last year Delmarva lost one of its best and most authentic Japanese restaurants. The closure also created a hole in downtown Salisbury. But a few months ago, a new Korean/Japanese restaurant, Koji, opened at the same location.
Koji is owned by the Kim family. The Kims immigrated to Salisbury from South Korea in 2001. At the time there were few Asian restaurants in the area and they missed the tastes and flavors of home. Mrs. Kim had always dreamed of owning a restaurant and when Sushi de Kanpai closed, the Kims saw an opportunity. They opened Koji with the mission to share the culture of East Asia and to honor the legacy of Sushi de Kanpai.
I heard rumors that a new Asian restaurant had taken over Sushi de Kanpai’s location, but I had forgotten they had opened. Last week I was downtown, I turned the corner onto West Main, and was delightfully surprised to see the Koji’s sign. So, I decided to give it a try. I have to admit that I was a bit hesitant. I considered Sushi de Kanpai to be one of the best restaurants on the whole peninsula and I was afraid Koji would be a big disappointment.
I was pleasantly surprised to find that Koji made only minor changes to Sushi de Kanpai’s understated but elegant Japanese interior design. So, they were off to a good start. The waiter brought me a menu which included Japanese classic dishes plus a few distinctly Korean dishes. I almost ordered the Bibimbap, but it was a cool winter’s day so I decided to opt for a traditional Japanese winter meal, tempura udon; which included a side of kimchi (served with every meal) and a Korean coleslaw.
As I waited for my meal a small group of Kim family members entered the restaurant and sat down at the next table. Mrs Kim, the chef, came out to join them. The lively conversation in Korean only added to the Asian atmosphere. When the waiter brought out my meal, all my doubts about Koji living up to Kanpai’s reputation dissipated. In Japanese cuisine, presentation is as important as taste, and the dish was a work of art.
As for the taste, the tempura was cooked perfectly, light fluffy, and not the least oily. The udon included a generous chunk of crab, the broth was slightly sweet and tangy, and the noodles were cooked perfectly. As I was eating the chef noticed that I was thoroughly enjoying my meal. I told her, through her son, that her food was every bit as good as anything I had eaten in Seoul or Tokyo. She was so delighted with me reaction that she had her son bring me a complimentary dessert.
For those of you who lamented the loss of Kanpai, take heart, for Koji lives up to Kanpai’s high standard. Not only is Koji the best Japanese restaurant in Salisbury. I rate it one of the best restaurants on Delmarva.
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