Mark’s Score 8.6
You cannot write a travel blog about Delmarva without reviewing barbecue restaurants. Barbecue is a very popular cuisine on the Delmarva. I am ambivalent about barbecue. I do not dislike it, but for me, a little barbecue goes a very long way. I had yet to go to a barbecue restaurant since I started this blog, so the time had come. As luck would have it, the former Oaked 54 in Delmarva had changed hands and the location reopened as The Groove. So, I thought I would kill two birds with one stone, by reviewing a new restaurant and barbecue all in one.
Doug Marshall took full ownership of the Delmarva location in 2024 and renamed the restaurant the Groove. Doug had a very clear vision. He wanted the Groove to be more than a restaurant. He wanted it to be a community gathering place offering food, live music, and good times. The Groove is as much an entertainment center and gathering place as it is a restaurant. His cuisine is about comfort food with an emphasis on smoked barbecue. As a side note, Marshall was a friend of slain officer Keith Heacook. In honor of Heacook, you can purchase commemorative t-shirts, proceeds from which go to the Behind the Line organization.
Though Marshall sees Groove as a community gathering pace, it was a cold blustery winter’s day when I went for lunch. There were only two other customers on the day I was there. First thing you need to know about Groove is that it is set off the road, with the restaurant located at the end of a very long driveway in the middle of a farm field, with a majestic stand of Loblollies behind the building. The building vaguely looks like a barn and the interior design continues that theme.
As usual, I sat at the bar and the very friendly bartender offered me a menu. The menu contained all the items one would expect in a barbecue/comfort food restaurant. I almost asked the bartender for his recommendation, but sticking with the restaurant theme I ordered the pork belly burnt end grilled cheese sandwich. I then asked the bartender what he would have recommended, to which he replied, “the burnt end grilled cheese sandwich is one of my favorites.” So, I ordered well.
I am told that good smoked barbecue should have a strong smoked flavor, but that flavor should not overwhelm the meat. The meat is the star. Nor should the meat be overwhelmed with spices, a bit of paprika, salt, and peeper is all that is required. Contrary to popular belief, barbecue sauce is not required. The meat should be crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside. My sandwich met all those criteria and the side French fries were appropriately seasoned, hot, and not greasy.
So, my conclusion, if you like barbeque then Groove will not disappoint. As for me, I would happily come back, maybe next time I’ll come back for the live music.
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