Mark’s Score 8.9
Every time I go down to Onancock, I resolve to try a restaurant other than Mallards. Yet, for one reason or another, I always end up at Mallards. It is like there is a divine hand that always sends me back.
Since 2005 Mallards has been located in the historic Hopkins & Brothers building on the wharf at the western edge of downtown Onancock. After holidaying in the area, Chef Johnny Mo moved to Onancock in 2002. He is not only a critically acclaimed chef; he is also an accomplished author and musician. Though I have not been fortunate enough to see it, he has been known to come out from the kitchen and play a tune or two for his guests. Mo’s cuisine focuses on seasonally fresh products sourced locally, resulting in a menu that changes with the seasons.
Being at the water’s edge, just a few inches above the water level, it is not unexpected that Mallards’ décor would take a nautical theme. The dining area is decorated in royal blue and white with nautically themed decorations on the wall, including a sailing ship wheel. The building was built in the 1840s so the ceilings are low. But the combination of a low wood-slat ceiling, and dark blue walls gives the room a close local pub ambiance.
I hadn’t been in Onancock for several years, so I was looking forward to Mo’s popular braised pork appetizer, followed by the Mallard house salad, with a glass of cab franc rosé to wash it all down. I ordered the cab franc rosé because, frankly I had never heard of a cab franc rosé so I wanted to try it. I try to keep these reviews positive, so let me just say, I don’t need to try a cab franc rosé again.
I ordered the braised smoke pork on sweet potato biscuit with aioli because it is one of Mallards’ signature dishes. I have a philosophy when it comes to evaluating restaurants. Sometimes I’ll order an ordinary item to see if the chef can make the ordinary memorable. On other occasions I order the restaurant’s signature dish, under the assumption that if you make something your signature you better do it well. So, what did I think? The pork was spectacular, starting with its presentation. The dish was almost too beautiful to eat. The combination of smoked pork, sweet potato and spicy aioli was a delightful combination of tastes and textures. There was something about the combination of the succulent pork with a classical biscuit texture that made each bite satisfying. I enjoyed the salad, it wasn’t memorable, but it was good. Though I will note that the blue cheese vinaigrette dressing made that dish a winner. As I age, I have come to appreciate the tangy earthy flavor of blue cheese.
For me, Mallards is the restraint version of a good friend, you are not in love with them, but you can always depend on them to come through and you are always happy to see them.
What else is there to do in or near Onancock?
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