Mark’s Score 8.9
Every time I go down to Onancock, I resolve to try a restaurant other than Mallards. Yet, for one reason or another, I always end up at Mallards. It is like there is a divine hand that always sends me back.
Since 2005 Mallards has been located in the historic Hopkins & Brothers building on the wharf at the western edge of downtown Onancock. After holidaying in the area, Chef Johnny Mo moved to Onancock in 2002. He is not only a critically acclaimed chef; he is also an accomplished author and musician. Though I have not been fortunate enough to see it, he has been known to come out from the kitchen and play a tune or two for his guests. Mo’s cuisine focuses on seasonally fresh products sourced locally, resulting in a menu that changes with the seasons.
Being at the water’s edge, just a few inches above the water level, it is not unexpected that Mallards’ décor would take a nautical theme. The dining area is decorated in royal blue and white with nautically themed decorations on the wall, including a sailing ship wheel. The building was built in the 1840s so the ceilings are low. But the combination of a low wood-slat ceiling, and dark blue walls gives the room a close local pub ambiance.
I hadn’t been in Onancock for several years, so I was looking forward to Mo’s popular braised pork appetizer, followed by the Mallard house salad, with a glass of cab franc rosé to wash it all down. I ordered the cab franc rosé because, frankly I had never heard of a cab franc rosé so I wanted to try it. I try to keep these reviews positive, so let me just say, I don’t need to try a cab franc rosé again.
I ordered the braised smoke pork on sweet potato biscuit with aioli because it is one of Mallards’ signature dishes. I have a philosophy when it comes to evaluating restaurants. Sometimes I’ll order an ordinary item to see if the chef can make the ordinary memorable. On other occasions I order the restaurant’s signature dish, under the assumption that if you make something your signature you better do it well. So, what did I think? The pork was spectacular, starting with its presentation. The dish was almost too beautiful to eat. The combination of smoked pork, sweet potato and spicy aioli was a delightful combination of tastes and textures. There was something about the combination of the succulent pork with a classical biscuit texture that made each bite satisfying. I enjoyed the salad, it wasn’t memorable, but it was good. Though I will note that the blue cheese vinaigrette dressing made that dish a winner. As I age, I have come to appreciate the tangy earthy flavor of blue cheese.
For me, Mallards is the restraint version of a good friend, you are not in love with them, but you can always depend on them to come through and you are always happy to see them.
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