Mark on the Shore

Mark’s Score   8.2

I have to admit, in the time I have lived here, I have been decidedly unimpressed with the inland cities and towns of Delaware’s Sussex County. On first impression the land is featureless, and its cities and towns have a decidedly used past their date feel about them.   But the purpose of this blog is to explore, dig deeper, and learn about my adopted home. My objective is to scratch below surface impressions and find hidden gems. This region abounds in beauty, culture, and historical significance, if you take the time to look.  Such is the case with Seaford. On first blush you would be attempted to just drive on, but scratch beneath the surface, and you find a charming historical gem. 

The earliest recorded European settlement in Seaford was “Martin’s Hundred,” a 1,750-acre (708 hectares) land grant along the Nanticoke River given to Jeremiah Jadwin in 1672. The town itself was laid out in 1799 and was known as “Hooper’s Landing.” The town became a river port for nearby farms, shipping timber, grain and farm products down the Nanticoke to the Chesapeake Bay. In 1939, DuPont built the first nylon manufacturing facility in the world in Seaford, earning Seaford the nickname, “Nylon Capital of the World.” Most of the industry and port facilities are gone. But the legacy of the town’s past can be seen along the riverwalk and in many of the historical structures downtown. 

At first, this town does not seem to offer the traveler much reason to visit. Route 13, which passes just to the west of downtown is an ugly carbuncle of strip malls, gas stations, and fast-food restaurants. Much of the historic residential neighborhoods on the northeast side of downtown, though full of some handsome Victorian homes, looks like it could use a new coat of paint. But if you ignore all that and head for the High Street and the Nanticoke River front, you will be rewarded for the effort.  

High street is charming, if a bit scruffy. Though there is not a great deal of shopping, there are several nice restaurants, and a remarkable meadery.  There are several excellent examples of Victorian architecture, as well as the Seaford Museum. But the crown jewel is the majestic Mt Olive United Methodist Church, with its distinctive windows and tower. My years in Europe taught me an appreciation of ecclesiastical architecture. Delmarva may not have Europe’s gothic cathedrals, but it is never-the-less full of impressive ecclesiastical architecture, and Mt Olive is one of the finer examples. If you travel further west on High Street, past the railroad tracks, you will find a number of well-kept Victorian homes. The Nanticoke River is just one block south of High Street. The land sweeps down to the river, behind Mt. Olive, and there you will find a lovely riverwalk in Riverview Park. 

Seaford embodies everything that disturbs me about Sussex County. There is much historical beauty in Delaware, but Delaware makes you search for it. Sussex County is becoming overrun with soulless suburban development, while many of its charming old neighborhoods are ignored and left to decay. Seaford is worth a visit, but you have to work to find the gems hidden amongst the suburban sprawl and urban blight.

Which Delmarva cities and towns should you visit.

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