Mark’s Score 9.0
Onancock is yet another beautiful and bucolic town that dot the rivers and inlets of the Chesapeake Bay. These towns are some of the oldest communities in United States, and offer a window into colonial America. However, Onancock stands out among its peers for the natural beauty of its inlet and the architectural beauty of the town itself. I consider Onancock to be one of the prettiest towns in all of Delmarva. Yet it is not as well-known as towns up the bay making it a perfect and quiet day trip or weekend getaway.
Onancock was established in 1680, but its story extends all the way back to the founding of Jamestown in 1607. Captain John Smith favorably mentioned Onancock’s inlet as a future place for settlement. Onancock, from its earliest days, has served as service center for local farmers and fisherman. The Chesapeake was center stage in the colonial era and during the revolution, but Onancock remained a quiet backwater. However, Onancock did play a role in the Battle of Kedges Strait (which is actually up the bay in Crisfield, Maryland). Commodore Zedechiah Whaley solicited the aid of Onancock in fighting that battle, and Onancock responded by sending 25 local men.
Every time I have visited Onancock the weather has been beautiful, but according to Jim Duffy in his book, Shore Fun, Onancock means “foggy place” in the Accomac language. Fog or no fog, Onancock’s inlet is one of the prettiest on Chesapeake Bay. The combination of the beautiful setting and the historic and well-preserved architecture of the village itself make this one of the prettiest spots on the eastern side of the bay. Of all the towns and villages on the bay, I would rate Onancock the prettiest save for Oxford, MD. But what makes this town so special is the fact that it is full of interesting shops, restaurants, museums, and art galleries, while at the same time, being off the beaten tourist path.
When I travel to Onancock from Salisbury, I always take the Accomac exit off Rte 13. Accomac is on the opposite side of 13 to Onancock, so it is a small detour. But it is well worth the few extra minutes you add to your trip. Accomac has been the county seat of Accomack County since 1690. The county and town are spelled differently by an act of the state legislature in 1940. The Victorian court house is a gem, and the courthouse square is charming. Many of the side streets contain houses from the late colonial and the federalist period. If you are hungry, Mallards has recently opened a sandwich shop in the center of town.
The last time I went to Onancock it was a beautiful clear autumn day. It is just the type of day you would expect throngs of tourists, but I was virtually alone, and that is what makes Onancock great. It is beautiful, yes. But it is also authentic. This is a place where people live and work, it is not a mere tourist attraction.
Onancock is the perfect weekend getaway, a beautiful inlet, several excellent restaurants and shops, three museums, and all located within an easy stroll of each other. If you haven’t been, you should put Onancock on your short list.
Places rated in or near Onancock
| Rating Date | Place | Category | Score |
| Oct 25 | North Street Market | Shop/food & art | 9.01 |
| Oct 25 | Mallards | Restaurant | 8.91 |
| Oct 25 | Ker Place | Museum | 8.85 |
Places reviewed in or near Onancock
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