Mark’s Score 8.9
During the summer I tend to avoid the beaches and beach towns, too many tourists. But some businesses are only open during the season, so if I want to go to Pico Taqueria, for example, I have to go during the season. Pico is an outdoor taco stand on Maddox BLVD just down the street from AJs. It is also one of my favorite taco places in all of the Delmarva, both for the food and for its fun beach vibe.
Pico Taqueria is owned by the Moot brothers, Dylan and Nathan and their wives Kate and Rosie. They opened their current location back in 2019. Before that, they served their tacos from a food truck. All four owners have extensive experience in the restaurant business, Nate, Dylan, and Rosie have considerable experience as chefs in first class restaurants on both the east and west coasts.
Given the pedigree of the owners, you could assume that not only will you get a great taco, you will get a special and memorable taco at Pico, and you would not be wrong. This place is one of my favorite taco restaurants for a number of reasons. Let’s start with the crème fraiche. The first time I read their menu I knew I was in for something special because they used crème fraiche instead of sour cream in their tacos. Crème fraiche is the French version of sour cream, but it has a subtler flavor and silkier texture than mere sour cream. They also use fresh quality ingredients, and they make their own tortillas, and sauces. I don’t know what they do or how they do it but their tortillas are soft delicate perfections. In many taquerias the tortilla is merely the delivery method for the filling. Not at Pico, the tortilla is every bit as much a star as the fillings. Who knew mere flour could be so memorable?
As for the sides, well to be honest, every time I go to Pico I never really get past the Chincoteague Classic Taco and Costa Rican Black Beans. I have vowed to try their other dishes, but why fool with perfection? The black beans are cooked with bacon, and once again this dish proves my dog’s life-long belief that everything is better with bacon.
But it is not just the food. To be honest, it first blush, the restaurant is not much to look at. Its façade is pretty unassuming. However, to the right side of the ordering window they have built a lovely dining patio. I love the fact that the floor is nothing more than beach sand, and the patio is sheltered from the sun by wind sails. Though far from the beach, the fully licensed bar at the back looks and feels like a Caribbean beach bar. The tin roof makes it all the more charming.
If you love tacos, then this restaurant should be on your short list.
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